I posted this question and my response to start a comments feed for everyone to let us know how to make Fix My Hog better.

We have over 65 hours of Harley how-to on the site and that breaks down to over 350 videos.

We cover Big Twin models from 1984(first year Evolution Engines) through today’s Twin Cams. We cover the Sportster from 1986 through today.

We categorized by topic in the Videos tab, like Maintenance and then by model, Touring, Softail/Dyna, Sportster.

We also have two video indexes.

Harley Videos copy

Here are a few questions to think about as you read this post.

How do you look for videos on our site?

Suggestions on how we should organize our videos.

Suggestions for new videos for our site.

Since 2004 our goal has been to make wrenching easier for the at home wrench. We want riders to enjoy this lifestyle even more by turning a wrench and getting to know their Harley.

Anything we can do to make this experience better, we are all ears.

We look forward to your comments here and check back for my feedback.

Together we will continue to provide the best Harley how-to videos on the web.

 

Q: I went thru and looked at the videos AGAIN just making double sure that I had not missed something and I found no real tips that can help me with my bike. There are earlier mods than mine with carburetion fuel system and there are the newer fully electronic (cable-less) fuel injection systems but not one did I find with the fuel injection as mine has and fuel systems is something I am very interested in. My older bike I re-built from a wreck in 2000 and had to learn as I went due to lack of finances but I now know quite a bit about evo Sportsters. I know not much about this fuel injection system, I have fears of messing my newer bike(2007 Road King) up. It came with V & H dual with fish tips etc and a fuel pack but I did not attempt to cahnge anything about the way the bike sounded ( the way I wanted to ) until I had full knowledge of what to reset my fuel pack to. I would also be interested in aftermarket cams but I am quite a do – it myself `er and that is something I surely don’t want to muck up. My other bikes I had installed hi performance ignition system but again I know not about the proper way to go about that either. If there are no videos that can help me learn these things for my 07`twin cam road king ( flhr ) then I dont want to waste anymore of either of our time, I purchased the touring videos already when I 1st got my new scooter and they are the same as on the site. NO HELP FOR ME & MINE not trying to be rude just becoming frustrated.thank you

A: Hi Harley Rider,

I started Fix My Hog over 10 years ago to help guys like you and I. I apologize for the emails(back and forth) and maybe even for the lack of a defined index of videos on the site. I’m working on a new index.

You are correct we do not have a 2007 Road King on all the Touring videos.

Yes, many of the maintenance videos on the site are on the Touring Edition Part 1&2 DVDs.

You will follow these steps to maintain your 2007 Road King:

http://www.fixmyhog.com/videos/touring-maintenance/

And an index:

http://www.fixmyhog.com/harley-maintenance-schedule-touring-index/

To learn about advanced maintenance like rear belt R&R, caliper / master cylinder rebuilds, fuel filter and more check out these videos:

http://www.fixmyhog.com/videos/touring-advanced-maintenance/

To learn about installing exhausts, air intakes, efi mapping systems follow these videos:

http://www.fixmyhog.com/videos/touring-performance/

“V & H dual with fish tips etc and a fuel pack but i did not attempt to change any thing about the way the bike sounded ( the way i wanted to ) until i had full knowledge of what to reset my fuel pack to”

Follow these videos and make sure to check out the videos in the Style & Performance Upgrades section – Softail/Dyna and Sportster for more upgrades:

http://www.fixmyhog.com/video/exhaust-clutch-cable-removal-001433/

http://www.fixmyhog.com/video/clutch-cable-installation-001435/

http://www.fixmyhog.com/video/air-cleaner-removal-throttle-cable-removal-install-001437/

http://www.fixmyhog.com/video/custom-air-intake-install-001439/

http://www.fixmyhog.com/video/custom-exhaust-install-001440/

http://www.fixmyhog.com/video/custom-efi-mapping-install-001442/

“i would also be interested in after market cams but i am quite a do – it myself `er and that is something i surely don’t want to muck up”

This class is the closest we have to a cam swap. When we updated the cam chain tensioners, we swapped the stock for Andrews.

http://www.fixmyhog.com/videos/cam-chain-tensioner-shoe/

“my other bikes i had installed hi performance ignition system but again i know not about the proper way to go about that either .”

We do not have exact video on this for your model but many in the Electrical Class:

http://www.fixmyhog.com/videos/electrical/

“NO HELP FOR ME & MINE not trying to be rude just becoming frustrated.thank you”

No worries and once again I hope the videos we do have help you out. Even though your exact model is not on each video the procedures are similar and with a service manual as a resource the differences should be clear.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

The one thing I do not want is a member that is not happy. We are trying to make wrenching easier for the at home wrench and we do not want riders smashing their computers saying we only frustrated them.

Merry Christmas.

 

Wrench Safe,

Dennis Santopietro
Founder

Q: I’ve got a 2011 H-D Fat Boy Lo with stock tires. Jerry “Motorman” Palladino in his “Ride Like a Pro” DVD recommends running 40 psi tire pressure in the front Harley tire to lighten steering loads and ease low speed maneuvering. The H-D owner’s manual calls for 36 psi in the front tire. Will going to 40 psi cause any problems with the front end, i.e. excess wear or speed wobble and will there be any problem with wear or damage to the front tire. Thanks in advance, Tom

A:Tom, Over inflating a tire may cause it to wear quicker and you will typically feel more of the road because of the tire being harder. Keep in mind; engineers spend many hours studying & testing these tires and motorcycles before they resolve to a number (36 lbs). This tire pressure amount is what has been determined, to be best, for longevity of the tires, quality if the ride, and rider safety.

Check out a video we produced on tires. It’s everything you need to know about your bike’s tires.

http://www.fixmyhog.com/video/tire-maintenance-002168/

I also found another interesting article, you should check out.
http://www.ridemyown.com/articles/technical/tires_insidestory.shtml
Q: I have a 2010 Harley Trike FLHXXX. The clutch pushrod bearing has gone out two times once two years ago and just recently. Do you have a video of replacing it? Have you heard of any problems with this problem with the trike?
Ray

A:You might be talking about the throw out bearing behind the transmission side cover.
View @ 6:20 http://www.fixmyhog.com/video/jims-transmission-side-cover-install-006927/

Clutch adjustment should be as follows:
http://www.fixmyhog.com/video/primary-fluid-service-w-clutch-primary-chain-adjustment-001305/

Incorrect clutch adjustment is the most common reason for throw-out bearing failure. The bearing is only supposed to be engaged when the clutch lever is pulled inward. That is one of the reasons why it is so important to completely slacken the clutch cable BEFORE adjusting the clutch pack and, also, why you need to correctly back out the adjuster screw. If the bearing is constantly engaged, it will be subject to excessive heat and, therefore, fail.

Other reasons for throw-out bearing failure are: age/high miles/a lot of city riding/lack of maintenance (bad, old, or wrong oil)/Incorrect oil level/aftermarket side cover (binding of ball & ramp assembly)/heavy spring load from aftermarket performance clutch assembly.
Q: My question is about the Vance and Hines FuelPak3. I own a few bikes, but my question is does the FULPAK3 work on a 2013 CVO Breakout? I have spoken to more than one HD shop and they said it would. I have also seen on websites maps and installs on 2012’s and 2014’s but nothing on a 2013 CVO. I went even further and spoke with a Vance and Hines rep. He stated that the reason they say it doesn’t fit the 2013’s is because they did not test it on a CVO in their factory etc. The final unexplained question, what is different from a 2012, 2013 & 2014 CVO except the slipper clutch and paint? Will it work, the FP3 on a 2013 CVO 110?

A:Vance & Hines FuelPak will work with your 2013 CVO. If you have any problems bringing up the correct map for your m/c, they direct you to a map request form. You may not get your map until the next day, but it will be worth the wait. The FuelPak is easy to use and works flawlessly.
http://fuelpakfi.com/lcd-maprequest.html

Related Videos:
Vance and Hines FuelPak review

Vance and Hines FuelPak Install
Q: I have a 1994 Dyna Wide Glide I’m customizing this winter. I want to rebuild the 1340 Evo engine. I’ve been looking at big bore kits for Harley, a friend of mine has an 06 deuce he put a big bore kit in it. His stock engine should’ve been 14th cc I think. Would the jugs and pistons work on my 1340 evo? I appreciate your time and input on this. Thanks, Paul

A: Paul, there are big bore kits offered for your Evolution motor. The kits usually require that your crank cases be honed to accept the larger cylinders. That makes the job a bit more involved than your buddy’s Twin Cam kit.

S&S offers their classic Sidewinder package. Check that out. Here’s a link:
http://www.sscycle.com/go-fast-showcase/motorcycle-engine-kits/sidewinder-big-bore-kit/

A big bore kit is not the only way to gain significant horsepower.
Consider Screamin Eagle heads with a more aggressive cam.
A Thunderheader, or Supertrapp exhaust also aids a performance package/combination.

Choose a cam that reflects your riding style.
http://www.andrewsproducts.com/selection-guide/2-uncategorised/4-choosing-a-cam
http://www.andrewsproducts.com/component/content/article/2-uncategorised/3-2013-motorcycle-parts-catalog?Itemid=473

The Evo has been around for three decades now. People have figured out a lot of different combinations for creating more horsepower. Do your homework. Search on line to see what others have done. Read reviews of kits & combinations that have been tried. Find something that fits your budget.
Don’t rule out Nitrous. That is a lot of fun too!
http://www.mpsracing.com/products/NOS/no01o.asp
http://www.revperf.com/product_info.php?cPath=25_34_131&products_id=373
Q: Hi, I just recently viewed Bob demonstrate the proper way to remove the front brake caliper and reinstall the caliper after servicing the brake pads, then I noticed Bob torque the front master cylinder to 6-8 in lbs. Can you tell me what type of torque wrench that is? For some reason I’m unable to locate a torque wrench that small of inch pounds.

A: Inch pounds torque wrenches that start at 5, or less, inch pounds are more commonly found in manufacturing settings. Look at manufacturing suppliers such as Grainger or MSC. There are many different manufacturing suppliers in the US.
We recently had these 2 questions come in at the same time about S&S carburetor rebuild:

Q: I recently rebuilt my S&S Super E. I followed Bob step by step though the process. After reinstalling the carb back on my bike. It won’t start. I removed the air cleaner and discovered no fuel is being sprayed into the intake manifold. I’m assume it is the accelerator pump. The problem is I manually squeezed fuel through from the bowl during the rebuild process. Other possibilities could be the acceptor screw adjustment. And correct throttle cable adjustment. What are your thoughts and suggestions.
Thank you for you input

A:Make sure that your accelerator pump is assembled correctly, with all o- rings, ball bearings, diaphragm, springs and actuating rod. It is very important that the spring is on the correct side of the diaphragm. Be sure that your throttle cable can open the carb all the way to the throttle stop. Verify that you have fuel getting to your float bowl. You can do this by removing the brass screw at the bottom of the float bowl and, hopefully, draining your fuel into a small container. If no fuel exits, your needle valve may be hung up, or float height may be incorrect.


Q: Hi fellas, I spoke to Dennis today. We talked about my 2003 softail 88TC and not being able to start. Here’s where I’m at with this bike. It’s a 2003 Night rain that I’ve modified to a chopper over the years. In September I had to park it. And was unable to get fuel stabile in it. So it sat with a half tank of gallon. In October it was starting with the RPMS at about 5000. I would kill the engine and adjust the idle screws on the carb. I had a local HD shop look at it. All they recommend was for me to replace my S&S super E. That’s when I decided to rebuild the carb it’s been on the bike sense 2004. I’m military and it’s been shipped to and back from Hawaii twice, Missouri, Chicago , and Tennessee it also had sat for extended periods of time. I had S&S 585 cams put in 2012 in HI. It ran pretty good. I also have Vance Hines Big Radius 2in 2 pipes. Other than that there’s no other engine modifications. I did bump up my jets to .074 and increased my slow jet Today I drained out all of my old gas about 2.5 gallons. And put in about 1 gal of clean premium. When I crank the bike it will back fire. It fires a couple of times it but will not turn over. The bikes starter will click after about 5 cranks. So what do you think? I’m open to ideas. I’m in Tennessee a lot of the shops aren’t very reputable. I also have a tank liner issue. I discover that my tank liner is breaking apart in the inside. Any advise on that issue.
Thanks for your help Dave

A: Definitely no reason to replace your S&S carb when you can rebuild it but; if you are losing your fuel tank lining, you will need to start at your tank and make your way down.You need to find someone who can completely flush your fuel tank and re line it. Best bet would be a shop that repairs radiators. If you need to replace your fuel valve, try going with Golan. Top quality. Replace your fuel lines & clamps. Use an in line filter if the tank is still in question.Purchase a complete rebuild kit for your carb. Follow along with our video and take your time. Make it new again. Be sure to replace your intake seals when your carb is off. No reason to be all the way there, and not take care of that. Intake seals can be a big part of your problem.Inspect your throttle and Idle cables. If they are in question, replace them. A bound cable could have been the reason for your idle racing. Finally, start with a fully charged battery. If the battery is over 4 or 5 years old, you need a new one. Especially if it’s not a HD battery.Thank you for your service to our country.

Hogger Follow up: Hi you doing I wanted to let you know I got my bike running. It was the battery. When I pull it the stall date was May 2008. Well pass it due date for replacement. After picking a new one up from the Harley shop the bike fired up on first crank. A decent amount of black smoke can out of the exhaust pipes. After adjusting the idle screw the bike was running solid. I changed the oil Ann primary oil fired it back up and took it for a ride. It was about 30degrees out at the time. Overall after the rebuild on the carb, rejetting, and tuning the bike has never run better.



Related Videos and Harley Tips:


Carburetor Video Class

Throttle Cable

Harley Tips Search
Q: OK SO I HAVE A 1999 TWIN CAM A MOTOR IN A ELECTRAGLIDE. 95 INCHER WITH HEMI HEADS 600 LIFT CAMS MIKUNI FAT CAT EXHAUST AND ALL THE OTHER GOODIES TO MAKE A TORQUE MONSTER. I HAVE NEVER GONE AWAY FROM THE CAM CHAIN TENSIONERS OF OLD. I JUST KEEP MY EYE ON THEM PERIODICALY. AT 23000 MILES I DID THE PERFORMANCE MODS AND DECIDED TO REPLACE THE TENSIONERS AS PART OF A PREVENTIVE MEASURE, THEY ACTUALLY STILL LOOKED GREAT. NOW I AM BACK IN THERE AT 48000 MILES AND FOUND LITTLE WEAR DEPTH WISE IN THE PADS BUT SIGNIFICANT PITTING. I PULED THE CAM PLATE AND CAMS COMPLETELY OUT TO GET A GOOD LOOK A THE REAR PAD TO FIND SAME PITTING ISSUE. I CUT MY PUSH RODS SO I WILL INSTALL THE SE QUICK INSTALL RODS. I WILL UPGRADE TO THE TIMKEN INNER CAM BEARINGS WHILE I GOT IT OPEN. I WILL PUT BACK MY CAMS THEY LOOK AWESOME WITH 25000 ON THEM. I WILL PUT IN A FRESH SET OF LIFTERS. NOW HERE LIES MY QUESTION AFTER ALL THAT INFO. I AM FACED WITH THE DECISION TO DO THE HYBRID UP GRADE TO THE hydraulic TENSIONERS OR S & S GEAR DRIVE. OR SAY SCREW IT AND RUN WHAT I HAVE ALWAYS RUN THE STOCK TENSIONERS WHICH MEANS I JUST INSTALL THE NEW TENSIONERS LIFTERS PUSH RODS AND INNER CAM BEARINGS AND LOOK AT IT AGAIN IN 15000 OR 20000. WHAT ARE YOUR OPINIOUNS ON THIS TOPIC. ALSO IT WOULD BE VERY COOL TO SEE A VIDEO FOR DOING THE HYBRID CONVERSION AND ALSO THE FULL CONVERSION THAT USES THE NEW BUSHING STYLE CAM PLATE. I ALSO HAD A THOUGHT ON THAT BUSHING STYLE CAM PLATE. WITH THE LOW OIL PRESSURES OF A HARLEY WHICH IS BETTER FOR ROLLER BEARINGS SO YOU DONT WASH THEM OUT DOSENT SEEM GOOD FOR BUSHING STYLE BEARINGS. I KNOW CHEVY HAS USED THEM FOR YEARS BUT THEY PUSH 50 60 POUNDS OF OIL PRESSURE. WELL WOULD LOVE TO SEE YOUR FEED BACK ON THIS TOPIC.

A:Tony, S&S gear drive is probably out of the question for your m/c. There is a good chance that your pinion shaft will be out of spec for this kit. The run out can not surpass .003″. With your Performance upgrades, and almost 50k miles; there is a good probability that your shaft will be over this max spec. The hydraulic upgrade with the updated oil pump is your better choice. Thanks for your question.


Q: Cam Chain Tensioners on Twin Cam 88 My son just purchased a 2003 Road King we want to upgrade the chain tensioners to the hydraulic ones. I have watched all of you videos several times but am having trouble making decisions.
We are going to install the screamin eagle cam plate and High output oil pump.
Install the EZ adjustable push rods
Here is where we are having trouble
1. Do we upgrade to aftermarket cams? I have read the Andrews 26a’s are a good choice
2. The kit does not come with new gears and chains. What source do we use for those?
3. The stock lifters. It seems no one on-line or on the videos I have watched upgrades the lifters. Are the stock ones adequate enough?
4. Do I go to my local Harley shop and purchase everything there or do I go online and buy them at a less expensive price? Probably just my choice!
Please respond,
PS – Love being a fix my hog member
Thanks! Ralph

A:Ralph,
Andrews, or S&S, or H.D. They, are all top quality. What is most important is that you do your homework and figure out which cam will fit your riding style best. Read the cam descriptions on the manufacturer’s web sites. Compare them and try to read about other people’s experiences with the cam’s you are interested in by checking out on line forums.
When you settle on a cam, see what the manufacturer recommends for gears, chains, bearings, spacers, etc.
As far as lifters: If this m/c’s current lifters have high miles, or show signs of wear when you inspect them; replace them when you are doing the job. Otherwise, Harley’s stock lifters will be fine.
As far as where to buy: It is always better to purchase your parts locally; where you can have some kind of recourse if you are experiencing a problem. If you deal with a small, local bike shop/garage; definitely support them if they are reputable, or knowledgeable about what you are looking to do.
When buying online try DennisKirk.com as they stand behind what they sell.
Good luck with this performance upgrade. If you have anymore questions, we will do our best to help.
http://www.sscycle.com/tech-info/camshaft-overview-and-cam-specs
http://www.andrewsproducts.com/motorcycle-parts/choosing-a-cam

Related Video: Cam Chain Tensioner Inspection

See the Full Video Class on this type of project: Cam Chain Tensioner Class
Q: OK, got a question.. Have a 96 evo.. Has 42 thou on it.. Runs perfect, But.. It blows the Harley cam seal one after another in less than 100 miles. No damage to cam, no leaks otherwise. ??? Been to 5 H-D dealers.. they have no idea.. Got any ideas?? Started blowing cam seals at 35 thou miles.. went for a few thou miles after first fix down to every 100 miles now.

A: We recommend unloading your top end and doing a thorough inspection inside your cam compartment. There are a few things that can cause the problem you are experiencing.

Cam Bearing: inspect your cam bearing. If the bearing is bad. The cam will not be supported correctly. The cam will slightly tip causing the cam seal to fail. If the bearing looks/feels good; replace it anyway. You are all the way there, and a new bearing is cheap. If any needle bearings are missing from the bearing cage, you have another, more serious, problem.

Cam Cover Bushing: Inspect your cam cover bushing. This supports the outside end of the cam. If the bushing is out of spec, this will also allow the cam shaft to tip, or dip. If the bushing is out of spec, replace your cam cover. We recommend HD only for this replacement part.

Pinion Shaft: Use a dial indicator to measure the run out of your pinion shaft. If the run out measurement is out of spec, it may indicate that the pinion gear is causing excessive movement as it runs against the cam gear. Again, causing the cam to tip, and the seal to leak.

Related Videos:

Cam Chain Tensioner Class
Q: I have a 2002 carb FLTR 95″ with a crane plug in Ignition. I had cam chain issues and replaced them with the up-grade. After all adjustments were made by spec. (HD scream’n eagle adjustable pushrods). I have a mis-fire at 5100 RPMs. Rev limiter is set at 6000. Are the valves floating or is the Harley ignition going bad? It ran up to the rev-limiter prior to the up-grade I also replaced the tappets with new scream’n eagle ones. A: It would be a good idea to double check your pushrod adjustment. Upgrading your cam chain tensioners should not have an effect on anything associated with engine performance. Otherwise, yes, you may be experiencing an ignition problem if the misfire is always at the same RPM. Related Videos: Cam Chain Tensioner Shoe Project Class