Q: I have a Sportster 1200 C year 2011 the bike runs ok but I get this Harley error code p1001
if I clear the error turn on the bike but do not start the engine after about 20 seconds it errors again I have replaced the system rely I still get this error it can go away for a day riding but comes back again can you give any ideas on a cause for this?
Thanks Rob L
A: Rob, sometimes a code gives you a clear indication if what sensor/component needs to be replaced. Other times, the stored/current code only gives you a clue as to where to begin chasing your problem. It would have been nice if your problem was only a relay and that is where we would have started too (especially, being a cheap part). Now you will have to begin looking at everything associated with this relay. Basically, any component that directly, or indirectly has a wired path to this relay is suspect. If there is a problem with your bikes performance right now; that can be another clue for you to consider. An electrical manual for your make and model would be more than helpful. Consider doing an ohms resistance test on your coil. Sometimes you can find the correct test readings (for your coil) on line if you can not access the electrical manual for your ride.
Hogger Feedback from Rob:
Thanks for the update. It is looking like a grounding problem. The ground point one was corroded.
I cleaned this up and the fault went away for a week. So I will check out the all the grounding connection and cables.
Q: I have a 95 heritage. upgraded with a crane hi4 from Harley ignition and coil. I have been having trouble with the front cylinder cutting out. So far I have replaced the plug wires, spark, plugs, and finally the coil. I am still having the same issue. The engine starts up & runs for awhile, then the front cylinder cuts out. What would be the next step?
A: It is possible that the ignition, itself, is no good. Contact Crane ‘s customer service. Ask if they can send you their test procedure for the ignition. Or, they may ask you to send the unit out to them. Crane is a good American company. They usually stand by their products.
Thanks guys. I discovered that the ignition system stopped putting the power out to the front cylinder after the engine warmed up. I decided to go ahead & change out the ignition with the newer Crane Hi 4 system. I have not finished the installation yet. I will let you know how it turns out. Thanks for the response! ( I tested it with a test light. A correctly firing ignition will show a strobe effect at the hook up to each side of the coil corresponding to each cylinder).
Q: My husband has a 1979 Harley custom chopper w/ a 80 in shovel an 4 speed trans. He’s having problems with the trans. leaking grease on the drive side. The main shaft seal was replaced, was good for a couple weeks then started leaking again. Any ideas?
Anita B via Facebook
A: The bushing that supports the main shaft is probably worn; allowing the main shaft to have excessive runout. New seals will not stop your trans from leaking. The trans will need to be torn down and rebuilt.
Check out our Trans Project Videos:
Q: Help!!! My honey gave me a mini vacation as a newly just retired gift. After 41 years of building submarines I called it quits. She loaded my bike up with all that we needed and as I started to back the bike out of the garage, which is on a incline, I held the front brake on as I slowly backed out. The bike was not running at this time. Next thing I knew there was lots of smoke coming from the brake light switch. This was the beginning of the “aw shit” moment. I jumped off the bike to investigate and found the bottom wire to the switch melting. I squeezed the brake handle and at first nothing happened and my brake lights stayed on but soon after the smoke started again. So I know there’s a problem but I don’t know where to begin looking. Thanks for any advice you can offer.
2010 Electra Glide Ultra Classic
A: Hello William, Congrats on retirement.
Odd, did you test the rear brake light switch?
It turns out there was a recall on a whole lot of HG’s for that switch, and also for the tank mount. I found out the hard way. Check out this link and maybe pass it along on your website.
Q: Here’s a couple questions for your guys:
1. How much slack should be in the Harley shift linkage? The transmission shift pawl allen bolt is tight, but has a lot of free play!
2. When are you coming out with the removing and replacing a transmission?
A: Dave, the shift arm should be locked tight to the shift shaft. Sometimes the pinch bolt on the shifter arm may feel tight but if you can get a good bite on it with a good 1/4″ allen and a long handle ratchet, you may be able to snug it up another 1/2 a turn. If that does not work out, the shift arm is too worn and will need to be replaced. We are currently posting videos in the Harley Transmission Project Class. Thanks for your question.
Forward Control Install
Harley Transmission Project Class
Q: I recently replaced the stop lamp switch on my 2010 Softail Convertible as it was leaking brake fluid. Your Sportster fluid change video was an excellent guide for changing and bleeding the system – I used the Phoenix Systems injector. While I was at it, I also changed the front brake fluid. The brakes feel solid. But after some hard braking and slow-speed U-turn practice, I peeled back the Harley brake bleeder valve covers and noticed a slight amount of bleeder valve brake fluid weep. I first torqued the valves to 80 in-lbs. (lower torque spec) and then 100 in-lbs. (upper torque spec) in an attempt to stop it but still weeps. How can I stop the leak? Jeffrey L
A: A stock bleeder valve on a stock caliper should not leak on a bike that is only 4/5 years old. There is a good chance that the fluid you were seeing was residual. You can snug up the bleeder a little more and clean the area good with brake cleaner and compressed air.
Custom Caliper Bleeding
Stock Caliper Bleeding
Stock Caliper Bleeding Front
Motorcycle lighting is often seen as an unnecessary upgrade. It can, however, be one of the most impactful upgrades that a rider can make on their Harley. A lighting upgrade will not only increase your quality of vision, but it will also make you more visible to other motorists. A problem that exists for riders looking to make this upgrade is that there are so many different options to choose from, including halogens, HID’s and LED’s. On top of that, there are even more factors that can give riders pause, like what are the necessary modifications and what are the performance gains of each type of lighting upgrade. Wading through all of these options can make you just want to give up, but there is a simple solution.
To cut through all of the hang-ups, Kuryakyn has developed the Phase 7 Headlight and Passing Lamps. With the Phase 7, you will get the best possible DOT approved lighting on your Harley with a plug-and-play installation. The Phase 7 is an LED set-up that produces a light that completely outshines the performance of any conventional halogen or even an HID bulb.
The main advantage of installing the Kuryakyn Phase 7 Headlight and Passing Lamps is, of course, the quality of light that is produced. The light that is emitted is a nice, even white light that truly illuminates the road ahead of you as if it were daytime. In fact, the Phase 7 Headlight has a color temperature of 5,800K, which is very similar to the 5600K average color temperature of daylight at noon. The lens is made with a non-yellowing polycarbonate so you never have to worry about the light turning yellow over time.
The even light of the Phase 7 is in part due to the bulb-free Complex Reflector design of the headlamp. Standard incandescent and Halogen bulbs emit a light with a more rounded and inconsistent edge due to the bulb shape. The lack of bulb in the Kuryakyn LED lights allows them to reach out further without the sharp drop off that is seen with halogens and incandescent bulbs. You no longer have to strain to see past the edge of the light.
One of the biggest benefits of switching to the Phase 7 LED lights is the lower amount of current that is drawn from your bike while in use. The LED low beam will draw 1.5 amps, whereas the stock halogen draws 4.9 amps. For the high beam, the LED will draw 2.3 amps compared to the 5.5 amps from stock. This will free up precious power for your accessories along with other motorcycle electronic requirements. The lower amperage draw will also help to prolong the life of your Harley’s alternator.
Because the Kuryakyn Phase 7 lights are a solid-state, bulb-free system, they are incredibly durable. Halogens and incandescent bulbs are susceptible to damage that is caused by the motorcycle’s vibrations and shock absorption. The solid design of the Phase 7 can withstand far more shock and vibration because there are no filaments that can break. This added durability is one of the reasons that LED’s have a much longer lifespan.
If looks matter, these are the right lights for you. The Phase 7 kits are a direct replacement for your Harley light and even keep the same sleek design. If you want to really set your bike apart from the rest, you can add the Kuryakyn LED Halo Trim Rings. The Halo Trim Rings are easily installed to the headlight and passing lights and add a stunning halo effect to your headlight that is sure to turn heads both at night and during the day.
Installation of the Kuryakyn Phase 7 headlight is incredibly simple. The only tool that you need to get the job done is a trusty Phillip’s screwdriver. There is no need to splice any of your existing wires. The Phase 7 lights are truly plug-and-play and will connect right to your stock system as they use the standard H4, 3-blade wiring connector. For a complete installation tutorial, check out the Fix My Hog video.
The Phase 7 Headlamp and Passing Lamps along with all of the great Kuryakyn Harley parts can be found at DennisKirk.com.
Product Review Video here on Fix My Hog:
Installation Video here on Fix My Hog:
Q: Random grind when starting (Harley jackshaft pinion strongly hits the clutch´ ring gear) – Heritage Nostalgia 1993
My Heritage Nostalgia 1993, usually starts nice and strong, but sometimes when starting (engine either being both cold and warmed up) the jackshaft pinion hits the clutch ring gear and on second try it starts ok. Other times sounds and starts at the same time (seems the teeth hits a little, then engage before starting). This happens randomly but it´s very annoying when it does. Two years ago, I had the following parts replaced by a mechanic: new starter motor, new jackshaft pinion and new clutch ring gear. However, this happened from day one, very sparsely, as it´s still happening now. Being the starter motor brand new, don´t know what can be the cause. Electric system checked.
A: You say it has been a problem from day 1. You mean, like, 1993? You need to determine if you are chasing an electrical issue or a mechanical problem. If your battery is weak, or low quality, you may be lacking amperage. That is the muscle in a battery. You might have an alignment issue. Is your inner or outer primary something other than stock? Sometimes if a jackshaft is over tightened, it will not move freely in it’s bushing. I know you said the ring gear was replaced. Was it installed correctly with the beveled edge facing in the correct direction? There are ring gears with less teeth that work really well. Try powering your starter with direct battery voltage. If engagement is better, you need to look at your wiring. Check your starter relay. You might be losing voltage somewhere. If the problem still exists, it is more likely to be a mechanical issue. Watch this video and others on removal and install. Chrome Inner & Outer Install
Harley Sprag Clutch
Charging System Check
Starter Problem Test
Q: I own a 2004 Harley Super Glide Sport FXDXI. I’m an older rider and on long city traffic rides my left hand is tiring pretty often. I was thinking of installing the “easy Clutch kit”. I understand that 2006 and later they use an improved ramp. Can I just install the new type ramp or will the Harley easy clutch plate need to be installed also? Any advice? Will you ever be doing a video on this installation?
A:Yes, updating the ball and ramp would be a good start and if that does not help you could update to a variable pressure plate and clutch kit.
When we do clutch cables we show the ball and ramp.
Clutch Cable Removal
Clutch Cable Install
One More Removal
One More Install
We do show upgrading the clutch and that would be helpful for the easy clutch:
Q: 2007 1200 XL LOW speedo light stays on. Sporty was riding in some down pours. Thought maybe if I took the cover off and disconnected the plug it would dry any moisture but stills stays on. Any thoughts.
A: Sorry to answer with a question: Is it the engine light on in the speedo?
A From Joe: If I hit the horn switch, it would go out. It happened once again I hit the horn and out it went. Stayed off for a month now with no issues. Talked to other Sporty owners who never had an issue but their bikes did not have security. Thinking that might be the issue. Also the heat down here kills batteries quick. I’ve had to change the fob battery more frequently since moving to Fl. The engine light is also there but doesn’t illuminate when the issue happens. Basic trouble shooting shows no codes.
Thanks for getting back
I had recently wrote you about my 2004 883C Engine light popping on and off. I found that a lose ground cable at battery was the problem. I tightened it and no more engine light. A little snooping saved me a lot of cash compared to the dealer cost. Maybe this will help someone else in the future! Jeff M.