Q: I own a 2004 Harley Super Glide Sport FXDXI. I’m an older rider and on long city traffic rides my left hand is tiring pretty often. I was thinking of installing the “easy Clutch kit”. I understand that 2006 and later they use an improved ramp. Can I just install the new type ramp or will the Harley easy clutch plate need to be installed also? Any advice? Will you ever be doing a video on this installation?

A:Yes, updating the ball and ramp would be a good start and if that does not help you could update to a variable pressure plate and clutch kit.

When we do clutch cables we show the ball and ramp.
Clutch Cable Removal

Clutch Cable Install

One More Removal

One More Install

We do show upgrading the clutch and that would be helpful for the easy clutch:

Clutch Removal

Clutch Install
Q: 2007 1200 XL LOW speedo light stays on. Sporty was riding in some down pours. Thought maybe if I took the cover off and disconnected the plug it would dry any moisture but stills stays on. Any thoughts.
Thanks Joe

A: Sorry to answer with a question: Is it the engine light on in the speedo?

A From Joe: If I hit the horn switch, it would go out. It happened once again I hit the horn and out it went. Stayed off for a month now with no issues. Talked to other Sporty owners who never had an issue but their bikes did not have security. Thinking that might be the issue. Also the heat down here kills batteries quick. I’ve had to change the fob battery more frequently since moving to Fl. The engine light is also there but doesn’t illuminate when the issue happens. Basic trouble shooting shows no codes.
Thanks for getting back
Joe
Q: Hi guys, video’s have been great! Thanks!! I’m doing a lot of work on my bike. At the moment, I’m putting on 14″ apes. It’s on a 2002 Road King EFI, no cruise. So I got my longer throttle and idle, but I’m now realizing I have a cruise control sensor in my Harley idle cable. I’ve read in the forums that yes, Harley provided that link so if I should ever want to add cruise. I did not get a idle cable with the cruise option. I don’t want to return this, Is there something I should do with the sensor wires?? Cut and cap?? or should I cut and splice them together?

Thanks! Kevin

A: Don’t do anything with the 2 cruise wires. Just tuck them away behind the main harness and secure them with a zip tie.

Related Videos:

Handlebars 101

Harley Idle Cable & Throttle Cable R&R
Q: 2009 Harley Ultra Classic w/25K no past problems in the past, but on 07-12-14. I had a problem with what I found out and is called “Limp Mode”! no throttle response at all other than running at idle. Error codes I found on the bike were; P1511 & P2135. all having to do with the Harley throttle control. I did some looking on the WWW and found most who had this problem removed the connector “pin” plug from the throttle body, cleaned out with cleaner and added “die electrical grease” and the problem went away.
It’s running great now.
Just asking if this is “The Cure”?
Thanks Harold D

A: Yes, We have come across this problem a few times and that seems to be the fix. Other times, however, guys make a mess of their harness when attempting to install a set of handlebars and the Harley throttle control. That can also cause that problem.

Related Videos:

Handlebars 101
Q: One of my bikes is a 2001 Ultra. It Has 90,000+ miles on it. It is the only bike I have bought new. When I ordered it I ordered an oil cooler, cooling fan, stage one air kit, Vance and Hinds slip-ons, security siren, chrome forks with caliper and rotor cover and fork lights, bag lights, and a road zeppelin. I have replaced the cam tensioners twice, at 40 and 80,000.

The only recurring problem I have had is the rear head pipe breaks off right by the flange. I am on my third replacement pipe. I repaired the fist two twice. When I bought the third pipe the dealership told me that Harley has made multiple upgrades to this pipe but they still brake in the same place.

No there is good news. Time for a change. I bought an 07 Ultra, Good machine but much more top heavy I think. I put 30,000 on it. I bought a 11 Ultra and feel the same about it after 15,000. I have been riding the 01 back and fourth to work while trying these other bikes. I know I have to address this problem before the pipe breaks.

I purchased a set of true duals and a power pro from Cobra. I did the install and at first I wasn’t sure what to expect. It sounds great. Performance was good too, but between 75 and 80 MPH it would break up. It was like the back jug stopped firing. Then It started doing this break up at low speed. I could actually smell gas, I probably had fire but have no visual confirmation of this. I have checked the throttle position sensor it read .275 volts DC with the throttle completely closed. High and low Idle screws backed out. The cam position sensor read 5 volts DC and give a 0 VDC deflection when a feeler gage is passed thru it. My turn signals have not been self canceling for quite awhile. When I found out the bank angle sensor is integral with it and the security system I replaced it. I also checked the spark it is blue and jumps a .2755 gap both juggs. I’m running out of things to check. I’m tempted to put the stock pipes back on with the Power pro to see what happens. If there is no change I’ll remove the power pro.

I really liked the way the bike looks and sounds with these pipes. At first the Power Pro impressed me but now I’m not so sure. All together I have put about 4000 miles on this set up. My fuel mileage has improved, but I can’t stomp on it. I have to roll it on slowly. The low rpm problems has gone away so what I have done has helped. With this set up I have experience no backfiring at all.

Outside of me being long winded do you have any thoughts?

Tim S.

A: I only asked if he contacted Cobra customer service.

A: From Tim S.: Hi Dennis, I contacted Cobra Friday morning and got a near immediate response, they told me to contact Andrea La Plante. I did. I’m glad I did too. The conversation brought me back down to what I already knew were the facts. Air, Fuel, Spark. The Power Pro is only part of the fuel delivery system. I came to the conclusion after talking with him it was time to upgrade my ignition system. Let’s face it at 90,000 it’s probably overdue. I decided to ride the bike home, 200 miles, on the way I could stop and bounce this off of Doc, from Doc’s HD. He had everything in stock the coil, accel wires, ignition module, and plugs. I spent Saturday afternoon wrenching with a good friend and guess what? You guessed it, the problem is solved. I’m going to call Andre later today and thank him he was right. It was on the spark side of the equation. Ya know it’s strange you ride the hell out of a bike it always acts the same. Same old reliable ride. Ya keep waiting for it to tell you something is wrong. It never does until you change something. At 90,000 coincidences happen. Again thanks for listening and taking the time to be there for me.


Related Videos:

Cobra Power Pro Install
Coil & Wires Install
Exhaust Installs
Q: I have a 1999, 1200 Sportster and install a carb kit but still can’t start bike after it warms up. Tried adjusting mixing valve but not having any success. Can you give me any tips what to do ? Thanks Dean

A: Did this problem previously exist? What did the Harley carburetor kit consist of and what did you address? What happens when you use the enrichener? Will the bike run without the enrichener? Start it cold and check for an intake leak. Make sure you have no trouble codes in your speedo head. It may not be a fuel issue. It can be a bad sensor.


Related Videos:
Carb Jet Kit and Thunderslide

Carb Rebuild Class
Q: I have a Harley cold start problem with the used 2008 Road Glide that I bought. When I start it up in the morning it starts right up and goes to 2000 rpms. Then almost immediately drops to around 1000 rpms. Seems like it is almost going to stall out, but it doesn’t, and then it goes back up to about 1500 rpms. Is it something to do with the TPS? When it’s idling while it’s in gear it idles at about 1000 rpms and vibrates the heck out of everything. I want it to idle smoothly and at a higher rpm. Michael B

A: Check your speedo for codes. There is a good chance that you have a bad throttle position sensor, idle air control sensor, maybe even engine temp or map sensor. Would be nice if you could get your computer to tell you before spending $. Also, you should check for an intake leak.
Don’t get used to average. You chose to ride Harley to avoid being average like all of the other run-of-the-mill bikes out there. You wanted the best American made ride possible. There’s just one problem. The stock speakers and amp on your bike just aren’t the best they can be. They’re not bad, but there is a whole other world of crystal clear sound out there and you’re missing out. The Hawg Wired DCS combo systems can bring your Harley radio to a new level that you didn’t think was possible on a motorcycle.

For many riders, anything electrical on a motorcycle can be just as frightening as a deer jumping in front of you at 70 mph. If you are one of those guys, the American made Hawg Wired DCS (Direct Connect) systems are built just for you. The installation of the DCS kit truly is plug-and-play. There is no need to splice and solder anything. Hawg Wired designed the DCS to use the same connectors as your factory system and it utilizes your bike’s existing wiring to power the amplifier.

Hawg Wired Audio Upgrade Installation

In other words, anyone can install the Hawg Wired DCS and in almost no time at all. With Hawg Wired’s explicit instructions, you could have your new system installed within a half hour. See the install here: Hawg Wired

The DCS 120W Class-D amplifier is a huge part of what makes this system a success. Some of the benefits of Class-D amplifiers are they have a small size, are light weight, have a high power conversion and produces a low amount of heat. The installation of this amp does not compromise your bike in any way. The small size takes up very little space inside your Batwing or Shark Nose fairing. It also does not compromise your motorcycle’s electrical and charging systems. In other words, there are no needed modifications to your bike.

There are two DCS kits available; the DCS/SX and the DCS/ZX. The difference between the two kits is the speaker size. The SX kit includes two 5.5 in speakers, while the ZX comes with two 6.5 in speakers. Both kits deliver big power, but the oversized speakers in the ZX kit will give you the extra bass and volume you may desire. Just like the amplifier, the speakers are completely plug-and-play to make installation a breeze.

The biggest test for motorcycle speakers is how they perform at highway speeds. They need to be able to cut through all of your bike’s sounds in addition to all of the other road noises. These Hawg Wired speakers do just that with a very clean output that cuts through all of the noise.

If you do happen to be an audiophile, the DCS kits are sure speak to you. Hawg Wired has included built-in crossovers, giving you the ability to completely customize the sound. The amp also includes an RCA jack so you can use any non-Harley or aftermarket stereo. The options for you to customize your Harley’s sound production are wide open.

Both Hawg Wired DCS kits are available for all 1998-2013 FLTR and FLHT models and also for FLHX models from 2006-2013. You should keep in mind that the DCS120 amp is only 4 ohm stable and is designed to only power two 4 ohm speakers and it is also not linkable. If you are looking to add more speakers to your bike, you will need a different amp.

So if you’re tired of the average sound quality from your stock setup, check out the Hawg Wired DCS kits to experience what your motorcycle stereo should sound like.

For fast shipping and great prices on your Hawg Wired DCS kit, head over to the Dennis Kirk website.

Q: I own a “91 Sportster with about 17K miles and a 2006 Heritage – Special Peace Officers edition with about 15K miles. After starting and when I then engage the first gear it sounds like they “grind” going into gear. I do not hear any of this when shifting into higher gears but only when initially shifting into first gear. Am I doing something wrong or need servicing? John M. R

A: John, yes; what you are describing does sound like something that can be corrected with a simple Sportster clutch adjustment. We have videos for both XL and Softail that will walk you through both of these service procedures. Check them out..

Related Question:
I just bought a 2002 sportster and when I test rode it, it seemed just fine, I went up and down a steep hill took it out for about ten minutes. So my question. When I got it home the first ride out it seemed as though the clutch slipped a couple of times in first gear but not in any other gear and subsequently has been doing it since. It seems to have this initial slip and then be fine. I adjusted the clutch and Primary chain. I understand that some people have replaced the Gear Shifter cam or whatever it is called on the internal end of the shifter and that seemed to fix the problem, but I don’t hear any grinding, just slipping. Regards Jim

A: If you are correctly adjusting your clutch and it is slipping, you need to replace your clutch. Does not matter what gear is slipping.

Related Videos:
XL Clutch Adjustment

Softail Clutch Adjustment

Q: Should the oil holes in the Harley lifters face each other or it doesn’t matter?? George

A: George, We always face the oil passages toward each other on Evolution motors. On Twin Cams, it should not matter but it is best to always keep organized working habits.

Related Videos:
Cam Chain Tensioner Shoe Class