Hi Chuck. I ride an 87 FLHTC. When I hit the 100,000 mark it needed a freshen up. The cylinder base gaskets were weeping and a little oil consumption over normal. It was a stock engine to this point. I did a rebuild performing the following upgrades. Bored the cylinders by .010″, New Weisco .010 over flat top pistons. This way didn’t need to modify the cases. We did however split the cases to check a suspect crank bearing. So while in there had the crank balansed and new bearings done. We rebuilt the oil pump. Added an Andrew’s EV27 cam, and Jims breather gear. Did head work consisting of a valve job, and had the heads ported, polished, flow tested. The carb, I upgraded the old Kehin with a ’93 and newer 40mm CV. The carb was jetted slightly, and fitted with a needle from and ’98 Sportster (find articles by Joe Mitton on this in American Rider magazine). I already had the hi-flow air breather kit and Kerker slip-on mufflers. At the end of the rebuild the bike went onto the dyno. It turned out a very respectable 95 ft/lb torque, and 88 hp. My bike gets 180-200 miles per 5 gal tank of fuel. I currently have just over 200,00 on it and still as reliable as the day after the build.Honestly, my only regret is the porting/polishing and flow. Although the bike produces good solid power, it is now a lot more suseptable to bad gas and knocks and pings if I get some. I fell the head work did not quite produce the bang for my buck. when building a motor you gotta consider how you ride the bike. I can’t match the performance of my friends on new Twin Cam rides when the ride pushes past legal limits, but When on a tour it is just fine, and remains dependable. Good Luck. Andrew

How can I adjust the low iddle on my 1997 heritage

Hi Keith. That oil burp is no big deal. We refer to it as morning sickness. During the riding season, and when your bike is running it typically has 1/3 of a quart or so circulating through it at any given time. When your ride is shut down for extended period of time (ie; winter). Oil from the reservoir can settle from the tank into the motor caseing. When you fire things up for the 1st time of the season some of this excess oil simply burps out the vent tube of the engine. Next fall, check the oil level on the dip stick when you store the old girl. Then before firing her up in the spring, check the oil level. You will notice a difference. After you fire up the motor, check the level again. You should notice that the oil has come back to the reservoir. Except of course what has burped out. This is also partially why you want to run a motor with a remote oil reservoir prior to changing the oil. So there is no excess oil trapped anywhere in the system, the correct amount of oil is in the engine, and the reservoir. Hope this helps.