Clutch Adjustment

I have reviewed your DVD & read the instructions on how to adjust the wet clutch. I have a 2009 FLHTCU and in reading the service manual it states to hold the adjuster screw (center adjusting screw) while torquing the jam nut (outer adjusting screw). In your DVD this wasn’t done. My question is twofold: 1. is it necessary to hold the adjusting screw while torquing the jam nut? 2. If it is necessary do I need some type of special tool? Your help in answering these questions will be greatly appreciated. By the way I find your DVD very helpful along with the written instructions. Glad I purchased them.

Thanks, Walt

Hi Walt,

You can render the center adjusting screw a small amount to compensate for not holding it when you torque the jam nut. JIMSUSA offers a tool that works well, Snap on offers a crows foot type tool and a socket with a cut out to allow you access with an allen wrench, they are called a flank drive flare nut socket part number frx221. The important part is to make sure the adjustment is done correctly and the jam nut is tightened so that it cannot loosen when the clutch hub is spinning.  Wrench Safe, FMH
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7 Responses to “Clutch Adjustment”
  1. Henry

    Have an ’84 FLHTC and just replaced the clutch disc’s because they became oil soaked while the bike was on the kick stand for 18 months. Installed new Kevlar disc’s that came with an extra disc for “20% more surface area”. Now have a problem with clutch adjustment. Have to eliminate any clutch lever free play or the disc’s won’t disengage. No free play also causes noticeable slippage in 5th gear under a load.. Clutch pack release rod adjustment double checked. Any suggestions?

    Reply
    • Customer Service Techs

      Hi, Henry. May need to look closer at your clutch basket, or clutch hub bearing. If your basket has grooves worn into it; the clutches may hang up and not allow for proper disengagement. If your clutch hub bearing is bad, your hub or basket may be slightly tipping. This will also “hang up” your clutches. Really have to get back in there and reinspect.

      Reply
    • Charles Rogers

      Your 1984 has the same basket as my 1986 FLHTC does and the spare disk should not be installed I installed the same as you did minus the spare disk and plate and mine works perfectly no problems at all

      Reply
    • Bikes Built Better

      Henry, 1984 was a split year for Harley’s clutches. Some bikes were the old dry style, later 84s were the newer wet style. If your bike had the dry clutch, there should not be any oil in your primary housing for the plates to get soaked with. If it’s got the wet plates, they’re SUPPOSED to have oil on them and no amount of “soaking” would hurt them. The Barnett extra plate kit works very well, that should not be a problem. Things to check…are you using the correct oil for the clutch plates? (assuming it’s a wet clutch) Do you have the right plates for your application? If you need to run with no free play, which is really bad for things in the long run, you should look elsewhere for problems. Check the bearings on the right side of the transmission, clutch bearing etc. Also inspect the clutch hub adjusting towers etc as the 1984-89 clutch was famous for cracking and was later replaced by a steel hub.

      Reply
  2. John

    Hello all,
    First I would like to say your Videos are Top notch they have help me in many of ways
    I do have a problem, I want to replace the clutch cable on my 2008 road king but i can not loosen the clutch jamnut behind the derby cover it is so tight that the 7/32 is starting to round off. Do you have any Suggestions for me to solve the Problem any help would be greatly appreciated
    Thanks
    John

    Reply
  3. Elberto Rodriguez

    I have a very custom Rocker Softail. The title say 2003, but it’s so custom a stock Softail seat won’t fit it. I’ve got very little paper work on it. How can I research more info on it? It was built out in Cali, but that’s all I know about it. Please any suggestions would greatly help.

    Reply