FMH GOLD LIVE: Clutch Review

Bob LaRosa reviews and demos both wet and dry clutches. He discusses clutch design changes throughout the years along with proper maintenance and adjustment.


Log in now to view the event or become a Gold Member today by clicking here and pick the Gold Membership option!

  • (will not be published)

2 Responses to “FMH GOLD LIVE: Clutch Review”
  1. BRIAN

    Great description on Clutches and the variables of each type I’ve ran wet, dry, in different Harleys threw the years factory and aftermarket in Sportsters and shovels I had a 81 Sturgis with flow tested heads 10.5 to 1 .050 pistons speed balanced Crane solid cam with the good springs black diamond nitrated valves single fire dyna ignition kehin carb with the big accelerater spray nozzle with thunder jet . well as you can guess the factory clutches was no match which I got on the horn with dennis kirk and over knighted me Barnett clutches Red Spring tensioners billet pressure plate and heavy duty throw out bearing and new actuater rods and send that put all that in next day and adjusted like instructions said and tested readjusted 1/4 turn tighter on spring tensioners being sure to adjust even for full even pressure and Amsoil synthetics in every thing excluding primary on Sturgis worked great never a slip except when I shreaded a primary belt . sure surprised them evo bikes . I’ve got 2003 Fatboy 10,000 miles well maintained since new never rode hard until last week it was very hot couple brothers and I were running late to eat steaks at Bar and grill 30 miles out in the middle of no mans land and I ran it threw the gears hard and I noticed when I rolled the throttle on after hitting 3rd the clutches didn’t really slip but felt like a shudder of disces loosing contact intermitantly I change fluids every 1000 miles all 3 holes I use Amsoil primary synthetic in primary and Syn Amsoil for Transmission 20/50 Syn in motor Anyway I went to Adjust my clutch loosened Cable and nut all the way loosened locknut out to end of worm screw turned worm screw in till just felt clutch handle move and just felt tension on worm screw backed out counter clockwise 1 full turn locked 11/16 nut down went to cable adjust nut outward till 1/8 free play went to depress clutch 3 times and the clutch pulled about 1/2 way to fully depressed and stopped so I thought WTF and adjusted cable all the way loosened lock nut and ran worm screw in till pressure plate started to release and backed off just till there was free adjusted cable to 1/8 free travel and depressed 3 times and seemed good havnt took it for test run yet but why the cable bind when backed off 1 turn from contact of pressure plate?