As Bob points out; it is not necessary to remove your outer Harley fairing when performing a fork fluid change. You can access your fork tube pinch bolts by simply removing your ignition switch knob and lower bezel. The guys removed the Harley fairing for the purpose of demonstration. There are, however, a multitude of reasons to remove this finished component. Accessing your radio, testing/replacing electrical components, paint repair, just to name a few.
It is recommended that you always have a second set of hands aiding in the installation of an outer fairing. Plug in the headlight. Position the Harley fairing and start the left & right side, upper and lower hardware by hand from the handlebar side. Position the windshield and start it’s hardware. Notice that the upper hardware is longer than the lower and, in front, the center bolt is longer than the side hardware.
Do not torque any of this hardware more than 30 in. lbs. You need to use common sense when tightening this hardware. If you are tightening, and a screw feels “soft”; do not continue trying to reach your torque spec. Stop and reassess the area. Is something assembled incorrectly? Was the screw cross-threaded? Is an insert pulling?
Remember: these torque specs are designated for new, or like new, components and hardware. If your outer fairing has already been removed/replaced 20 times, it would be best to use a torque spec for reference only and assemble by feel. Finish by installing the left and right side passing lamps/signal assemblies.
Plug in until an audible click is heard. Then, position and begin the acorn nuts by hand before finally tightening 72 to 108 in. lbs. Clean this area with glass cleaner and soft paper towels. It is always a good idea to wash and wax this area before considering the job complete.